April 26th, 2009:

Whitesands Bay – Welsh: Porth-mawr

Strumble Head Lighthouse was erected in 1908. It’s purpose was to improve the safety of sea traffic and warn ships about the rocky Pembrokeshire coast line and strong currents that had previously claimed at least 60 ships in the 19th century alone. It was also used as a navigational aid.

Although Ynys Meicl is connected to the mainland via a narrow bridge, building on the island presented many difficulties usually associated with building lighthouses on more remote islands.
The light mechanism which enabled the light to flash four times every 15 seconds was originally clockwork and required winding every 12 hours.

The lighthouse has been fully automated (unstaffed) since 1985 and connected to the National Electricity Grid in 1965.

Strumble Head is one of the best places in Britain to view porpoise.

A few hundred metres out to sea are two small uninhabited islands, Ynys Onnen and Carreg Onnen.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7T43WJ2XYqY

Strumble Head Lighhouse

The shell of the castle dominates the small riverside town, which huddles around its base. Although it’s impressive from the riverside, very little remains other than the outside wall. It’s probably more interesting as an example of how castles can withstand repeated attempts to destroy them!

History

• It is first mentioned by Giraldus Cambrensis (See Manorbier Castle) as one of the places he visited in 1188 with Archbishop Baldwin. The castle, then, was only an earth and timber construction.
• The Castle was probably a strong stone castle by 1220, when it withstood an attack by Llewelyn the Great, who had already burned the town.
• It was acquired by Queen Eleanor (wife of Edward I) in 1289, who immediately began building on a large scale.
• In the 14th century the castle was held by a series of owners, including Edward, the Black Prince, from 1359-67.
• In the hands of the crown from 1381-85, the castle was repaired. It was strong enough to repulse an attack in 1405 during Owain Glyndwr’s war of independence.
• By the 16th century, however, the castle was derelict, but was hastily re-fortified during the Civil War. It was occupied successively by Royalists and Parliamentarians, changing hands four times.
• Cromwell ordered the castle destroyed in 1648. Copies of his letters are on display in the town museum, which is inside the keep. The demolition was only partially succesful.
• Part of the castle was converted to a prison in the 18th century. This building now houses the County Archives.

Features

• Well preserved shell of the inner ward and curtain wall.
• Several towers on the south east and south west corners are still standing but there is no access to the ramparts.
• A small postern gate in the south east tower allows access to a grassy terrace outside the walls.
• The county archives occupy the old prison, which was built inside the outer ward.
• The town museum occupies an interesting bow fronted building also inside to outer keep.

Facilities
Small car park inside the outer ward. Access via Barn Street and Church Street. Shops, cafes’ and restaurants in the town below the castle.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxsh-JsdaQ

The precise origin of Carew Mill is uncertain. It is possible that a mill worked by a mill leat running from the Carew River pre-dated the building of the causeway. Documentary evidence indicates a mill of some kind in existence as early as 1542. Records show that in 1558 John Bartlett leased the mill for the sum of 10 sovereigns per annum.

The first reference to a causeway comes in a commission of 1630 which indicates that Sir John Carew had restored the floodgates and causeway walls some 15 years earlier.

The present building probably dates from the early 19th century and indeed one of the two mill wheels carries the date 1801. The term “French Mill”, often used about Carew, may be a reference to the use of French burr stones.

The fortunes of the mill were restored by the revival in agriculture in the late 18th century and from that time the mill was constantly in use. Activity finally ceased in 1937 and from that time onwards the building lay derelict.

Renovation was carried out by the Carew estate with the aid of funds from the Historic Buildings Council of Wales, Pembrokeshire County Council and Pembroke Rural District Council. This work was completed in 1972. The National Park Authority acquired the lease of the mill in 1983 and has continued with restoration and improvement work, including the provision of the reception area, audio-visual facilities and a special exhibition on the Story of Milling. It is hoped that the south wheel will at least be able to turn some of the auxiliary machinery on a regular basis in the future.

The magnificent Carew Castle has a history spanning 2000 years. Set in a stunning location, overlooking a 23 acre millpond, the castle displays the development from a Norman fortification to an Elizabethan country house. The site incorporates an impressive 11th century Celtic Cross, the only restored Tidal Mill in Wales, a medieval bridge and a picnic area all linked by a delightful walk.

Carew Castle,
Carew,
NR TENBY,
Pembrokeshire,
SA70 8SL

TELEPHONE / FACSIMILE
01646 651782

E-MAIL
enquiries@carewcastle.com

History

At the end of the eleventh century the Normans extended their conquest of England into Wales and Pembroke Castle became the centre of Norman rule in South Pembrokeshire. Gerald de Windsor was constable of the castle on behalf of Henry I when he decided to build his own fortification on the Carew River, some ten miles up the tidal waterway from Pembroke.

This was not the first settlement on the site however. Excavation has revealed of an Iron Age settlement. A substantial 5 ditched promontory fort has been unearthed, together with large quantities of Roman pottery. A Dark-Age settlement or fort may also have existed on the site.

Gerald’s fortification was probably built of earth and wooden stakes. This fortification was later replaced by a stone castle. Much of what remains of Carew Castle today was the work of Sir Nicholas de Carew (died 1311), who was responsible in particular for the east and west ranges.

In the late fifteenth century the castle was greatly improved and extended by a very colourful character, Sir Rhys ap Thomas (1449-1525). He altered both the east and west ranges, and was responsible for many of the Bath stone windows and other features. Gaining the implicit trust of both Henry VII and Henry VIII he was said ‘to rule this corner of Wales like a King’.

The final development took Carew from medieval fortress to Elizabethan manor. Sir John Perrot (1530-1592) built the great northern range, with its huge windows overlooking the Millpond. He was not destined to enjoy his magnificent new home, for he died in the Tower of London before the work could be completed.

During the Civil War the castle was owned by Sir George Carew who declared for the King, but it was garrisoned at different times by both royalists and parliamentarians, and indeed changed hands four times, on one occasion at least following a fierce assault. Buildings on the south side were also slighted to prevent the enemy making further use of the site. Following the Civil War the castle was occupied for some years, but eventually abandoned in 1686.

In 1983 the National Park Authority leased the castle and surrounding area for 99 years. We began an extensive programme of restoration and management with the aims of conserving the buildings, improving their setting and increasing public access and enjoyment. The restoration programme was long-term, involving a team of masons and grant-aided by CADW: Welsh Historic Monuments. The castle is now a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) due to its bat population and several locally or regionally rare species of plants.

Widlife

Famous for its role in history, Carew Castle is less well known – but just as important – for its wildlife. The castle, grassland, millpond and mill lane were designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in recognition of this fact in 1995.

BATS: More than half of all the species of bats found in Britain – including the greater Horseshoe Bat- have been recorded here over the past few years.

PLANT LIFE: Reputedly one of the best sites in Britain for the southern polypody fern. In the grassland around the castle grow spotted medick, knotted hedge-parsley and fiddle dock. There is a variety of moths, beetle and other invertebrates which are important sources of food for bats.

BIRDS: Blue-tits, wrens, blackbirds and jackdaws all make their home in Carew castle. Little owl, tawny owl and barn owl have also been recorded at the castle. The millpond attracts redshank, curlew, common sandpiper and shelduck. Perhaps best known, though, are Carew’s resident swans.

SHEEP: Carew has been home to a flock of Jacob sheep since 1988.

Castle Tour

Pass through the Elizabethan Walled Garden containing the Herb Garden. Although not the original site for the herb garden, herbs played an important part in castle life and this reconstruction shows the four main uses of herbs.

Look back across the Castle Green to see the site of the outer wall and gatehouse of the thirteenth century castle. Excavations have revealed the foundations of this gatehouse, a substantial curtain wall and a rock-cut moat. The road built by Sir Rhys ap Thomas in the Tudor period can be seen leading through the gatehouse. Within the enclosed area in front of you stood stables, a barn, a bakehouse and other buildings. All of these were probably destroyed during or after the Civil War.

Move on to the Second Gatehouse. Note in front of the gatehouse the remains of a ravelin or v-shaped gun emplacement of the Civil War. The early Tudor gatehouse carried massive doors behind which were great bars and the draw-holes for these still exist on one side. Above the gate was the porter’s lodge.
From the post marked 3 you can look up at the east range which at first glance shows a continuous line of wall, but which on closer inspection shows the dividing lines between the (late twelfth century) ‘Old Tower’ immediately ahead of you, and the late thirteenth century building on either side. Arrow slits provided cover fire against attackers who might break through the gatehouse, while the windows show a wide range of styles, from a very early and tiny blocked opening to a Tudor addition to the Old Tower.

Moving into the east range you come to what would have been the Third Gatehouse. Note here the channel for the portcullis or iron gate which would have strengthened the doors and drawbolts as the last line of defence; also the Murder Holes in the ceiling of the passageway.

Turn right in the courtyard and enter the vaulted Undercroft. The east range was built by Sir Nicholas de Carew almost as a house within a castle for his own and his family’s use. This ground floor area provided storage space for food, beer and wine.

Move through the arch into the Kitchen passing the staircase on your right. This main room, with its ribbed vaulting, served as a kitchen with cooking done on the open fire. The steward was head of the household under the lord, and as such he had his own private room next door, together with a garderobe or latrine.

Go up the stairs and turn right into the Chapel. This room also has ribbed vaulting and would have been plastered and probably painted in brilliant colours of red, blue and gold. Note the aumbry or cupboard for the hold vessels (left of window), the piscina (right of window) and the stoop for holy water(next to door). The priest, like the steward, was a very important figure in the household, providing basic medical care and teaching the children of the lord in his Private Room next door, with its corner fireplace and window seat. Beyond this is a bedchamber and another garderobe.

Go up the next flight of stairs to the Solar. Above this private withdrawing room for the lord and his family you can see the battlements and the corbels which carried the roof timbers. There is a suite of small rooms beyond the Solar and further up the spiral staircase is a small guardroom with access to the guardwalks.

Return to the level of the Chapel and climb the fight of stairs on your left through a complex of rooms onto an open platform. The Platform is immediately above the passageway of the third gatehouse, and at one end has ‘murder holes’ in the floor through which the garrision could fire arrows and hurl other missiles at the attacking force below. The other end of the platform would have housed the winding gear for the portcullis. Continue to the end of the passage and the South East Tower. This was a family room. The line of the pitched roof is visible and again the battlements can be seen. The large Tudor windows face south and give excellent views of the surrounding countryside.

Return down one flight of stairs to the level of the chapel and turn left into the Lesser Hall. The Lord would entertain his guests in the hall, which was panelled in the Tudor period. Sir Rhys ap Thomas made a number of alterations to the building, including the addition of the Bath Stone Tudor Windows. The upper floor here would have been a bedchamber and you can see a superbly carved Bath Stone Fireplace. This fireplace carries the coat of arms of Henry VII and was also placed here in the time of Sir Rhys ap Thomas.

Go down the steps into the Courtyard. Move across to the Three-storied Porch. This magnificent entrance to the Great Hall was built by Sir Rhys ap Thomas, and the Coats Of Arms above are those of Henry Tudor (centre); his eldest son, Prince Arthur (left); and Catherine of Aragon (right). Arthur was married to Catherine in 1501 but died the following year. Wishing to retain the Spanish alliance Henry then arranged for his second son, the future Henry VIII, to marry Catherine. This ill-fated marriage was of course to lead to divorce and the break with Roman Catholic Church and the setting up of the Church of England. Elsewhere in the courtyard a number of Bath Stone Windows include carved Tudor roses.

Go into the Great Hall through the ground floor entrance. In the Tudor period this building was on two levels, the storage area below and the Great Hall itself, with high wooden roof, above. Note the huge fireplaces on either side of the minstrel’s gallery at one end. This hall saw the gathering of most of the Welsh nobility for the Great Tournament of 1507*.

Go up the stairs of the North West Tower to the first floor. This great corner tower of the Castle is said to be haunted by the ghosts of a seventeenth century lord and his pet ape, who died in mysterious circumstances. From the windows of this first floor room there are excellent views of the 23 acre Millpond, the Causeway and the restored Tidal Mill.

Return to the courtyard and take the next entrance on your left. This is the last part of the Castle to be built – a Huge Extension running the full length of the north front, the work of Sir John Perrot during the reign of Elizabeth (1558-1603). The very large windows in the outer wall show that the castle was being transformed into a country house. The inner wall, with its arrow loops, and the curved flank of the north west tower were once part of the outer face of the castle.

Go out of this area and into the next doorway in the courtyard. Here you can see the immense scale of Sir John Perrot’s Building on three levels, with the top one running the full length of the castle on this side, thereby forming an Elizabethan long gallery some 46 metres (150 feet) in length. The castle continued to be inhabited up to and beyond the Civil War. It was finally abandoned to become a ruin in 1686.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_feAv2KtsIE

Pembroke Caste

Idyllically set on the banks of the river estuary, this mighty fortress is largely intact, and its endless passages, tunnels and stairways are great fun to explore, plus there are super exhibitions, which tell the tale of its medieval life. Once the seat of a succession of major barons who played leading roles in shaping Britain’s history, this historic showpiece is the birthplace of Henry Tudor, father to the infamous Henry VIII and grandfather of Elizabeth I.

Spend a day, and picnic in the beautifully kept grounds or from St. Anne’s Bastion, enjoy views along the estuary while partaking of refreshments from the snack bar. Visit the Brass Rubbing Centre and quickly and easily, make an attractive souvenir. Complete your visit with a walk around the medieval town walls and millpond, and from the opposite bank of the river, view the castle in all its splendour, surrounded by this peaceful stretch of water.

Opening Hours open all year round The Castle and Exhibition Rooms are open to the public daily (including Sundays) at the following times:

1st April – 30th September 9.30am – 6.00pm (last entry 5.15pm)
March and October 10.00am – 5.00pm (last entry 4.15pm)
November – February 10.00am – 4.00pm (last entry 3.15pm)

The castle is closed on 24-26 December and 1 January.

ENTRANCE FEES

The castle is closed on 24 26 December and 1 January

Adults £3.50
Concessions £2.50
Family Tickets (2 adults plus 2 children under 16): £10.00
Children under 5: FREE
Parties of 20 or more: £3.00 and £2.00
*Dogs admitted on leads.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCIIj8-Yrwo